Catalan Fishing Boats, Collioure
France 2004 - 3 of 4

A Focalplane Travelogue

Railroad Bridge, Central France 3 - Nissan-lez-Enserune

And then, South to the Mediterranean via Autoroute A75, the most scenic and cheapest autoroute across France (it's free south of Clermont Ferrand!) Suffice it to say that if you like bridges, you will love this road; and the scenery is spectacular.

Milau Viaduct

The Viaduc de Millau is a most impressive piece of civil engineering that will open early next year. The viaduct will carry the autoroute over the Tarn. This is a huge enterprise and photos cannot do it justice. We drove to a viewpoint high on the southern edge of the Tarn Gorge and from there could see the entire bridge.

Today, all traffic has to go through Millau but next year everyone will fly across the bridge, unable to see just how special it is. The view (right) is of a part of the structure. Unfortunately the weather was not as bright as we would have liked for the photography. But it was getting warmer!

Milau Viaduct
Paradix And so, south we drove until the autoroute plunged down to the coastal plain and the Languedoc. Our route took us through the regional center of Bezier and then a few miles west to Nissan-lez-Enserune, our base and home for the next week.

We arrived on a Saturday afternoon and the entire town was caught up with a wedding - the BMW managed to gatecrash the wedding procession from town hall to church as we tried to follow our instructions to Paradix. But once there, we were afforded a wonderful welcome by the Glennies, the owners and developers of this unique property that lives up to its name.

After unloading our luggage, we took the opportunity to take a quick dip in the pool and generally unwind. The pool uses a non-chlorine sterilization process that seems to mimic sea water, a very pleasant sensation. The main house overlooks the pool but our apartment was close by.

We divided our week in Nissan between the immediate area and exploration further afield, notably to the Cote de Vermeille south of Perpignan - see Part 4. Although self-catering was the plan, we actually enjoyed several meals at the Hotel Residence, located down the street. Real provincial French cuisine is served here, with a rich choice on the very reasonable three course dinner. The friendly owners and staff treated us like we were staying at the hotel. The Dining Room
Wine Cooperative at Nissan Nissan is a small town with about 3,000 population and offers a variety of traditional shops including the obligatory boulangerie. Another key facet of the town is the local wine cooperative, almost certainly the most important building and source of most of the revenue for the community. The local Vignerons d'Enserune wines are excellent value and we have enjoyed the EU rules regarding import of wine into the UK for personal use! Their regular wines cost around 3 Euros a bottle and include a very drinkable Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc. For slightly more, the Viognier is excellent, having also won a gold medal in Paris. Specialty wines include heavy reds and dessert Muscats.
Nissan les Enzerune Nissan-lez-Enserune is a typical French village. Narrow streets lined with three story village houses. A small square in front of the Hotel de Ville. A market place where stalls are set up three times a week. All the usual basic services.

The village is off the main road and thus has retained a pleasant atmosphere. As a guest for only a week we were soon made to feel welcome wherever we went. This view is near the center of town, where the street is narrowest and therefore still has two way traffic!

The Center of the Village with the Hotel de Ville the most imposing structure in town. The market square is straight ahead (past the dark colored car and white van).
Nissan les Enzerune
Hotel Residence The Hotel Residence is where we enjoyed three really excellent dinners during our stay. We took this photo on our last day and they had just pulled up all the flowers in the tubs and removed the hanging baskets. Such a pity!
A couple of kilometers north of Nissan there are two "tourist attractions", Oppidum d'Enserune and the Malpas Tunnel on the Canal du Midi. The Oppidum is a fascinating archeological site - an abandoned hill town that thrived from the 6th Century BC to the 1st Century AD. Several phases of development have been traced and as with any ancient site there is evidence of new developments replacing older ones - so what is new!

The setting is amazing - mainly because it would be hard to believe that the people would want to leave (which they did, apparently because of the Pax Romana that allowed people to live in peace and safety.)

The view to the north includes the filled in Lake Montady which has been agricultural land for 750 years!

Lake Montady from Oppidum d'Enserune
Canal du Midi The Malpas Tunnel was constructed to allow the Canal du Midi to pass under the hill on which the Oppidum was built many centuries earlier. The Canal du Midi was competed in 1684, making it a very early example of inland navigation. Wider than England's Grand Union Canal, it is now mainly used for tourism and we saw several large canal cruisers pass through during about an hour's stay on the canal bank.

The tunnel is cut through volcanic rock which is self supporting at the western end (see photo) but has been lined with stone at the eastern end.

By this time, the sun was warm and we began to think about the coast and a swim. So we drove the short distance to Cap d'Agde, a twentieth century French development that, to be honest, is not badly executed! The Cap was formed by black and dark brown lava flows reaching out into the sea from a volcanic vent not far onshore. As a result there are rocky coves and cliff-backed beaches. The sea is warm and clean here and very inviting. Cap d'Agde
Languedoc Rooftops Gruissan is an interesting old fishing village near Narbonne. An ancient fortress built by the Cathars stands in the center of the village and the streets encircle it. Although huge coastal developments have sprung up around Gruissan, the town itself has a lot of charm and seems to have preserved its culture.
Go straight to: 1 - Introduction | 2 - Puy de Dome/St. Nectaire | 3 - Nissan-lez-Enserune | 4 - Cote de Vermeille
Travel Notes

Le Shuttle - under the English Channel/La Manche

There used to be only one way to go to Europe from the UK with your car and that was by ferry boat. Ferries have gotten much better over the years, but they still depend on the weather. Having experienced Force 8 Gales many years ago, we opted to avoid the surface of the ocean and go beneath it. Eurotunnel offers what is probably the fastest and most efficient method of crossing to Europe. You must arrive 30 minutes before scheduled departure while the crossing takes 35 minutes. So in a minimum of 65 minutes you have not only crossed the Channel but have also gone through passport and customs control and can immediately start the long drive south across France. You drive on to the train and stay in your vehicle during the crossing.

We paid £98 for a return trip that stipulated we could not depart before 5 p.m. going to France and must start our return from France before 10:00 a.m. These restrictions suited our plan to use B&Bs on the French side in both directions. A full, unrestricted return costs nearly £300. The one way penalty for changing our ticket was £30 (but we would still be limited by the time of day).

French Autoroutes

Many French autoroutes (a.k.a. motorways or freeways) have tolls (peage). For long distance travel there really is no other choice unless you have plenty of time to spare, so factor in the toll costs. A few autoroutes, such a A75 south of Clermont Ferrand, do not charge. The site helps to calculate toll charges.

Bed & Breakfast (Chambre d'Hote)

Many French B&Bs are inexpensive and offer good simple accommodation. It pays to use a reputable guide when selecting B&Bs as these screen out undesirable places. We used Alastair Sawday's Guide. A good B&B need not cost more than 50 Euros a night.

Self Catering

This is a very popular form of accommodation in France, particularly in the resort areas. Standards do, of course, vary enormously so it pays to research places using the internet and publications. Go for the online guides that publish the most information. For example, our apartment in Nissan was advertised on two sites. Alastair Sawday had minimal information whereas Vacation Villas carried complete information. We booked using the latter. However, the owners now have their own site here.

Beaches

A good beach is very important to us. After years of Texas sand bars, we rather like beaches that are backed by rocks and cliffs. We also love clean, clear water. So some of the beaches we visited passed the test, others did not. We particularly liked those around Argeles-sur-Mer (though they do get very crowded in summer) but also liked the rocky coves at Collioure and Cap d'Agde. Perhaps because they reminded us of Texas, the beaches around Gruissan were somewhat disappointing.

Guides and Maps

We found our Rough Guide of France to be a disappointing publication. If we had believed all we read we probably wouldn't have discovered half the places we really liked. Perhaps the writers have become jaded with all the development?

By contrast, the Michelin Green Guides are reliable sources of information but it is frustrating that they list places alphabetically rather than geographically. That you have to know what you are looking for rather defeats the purpose of the guide.

Michelin maps are also very good, but for more detailed mapping, we recommend the Series Bleu 1:25,000 scale maps. These even show all the tourist attractions (such as camp sites) and do a much better job at this than the UK equivalent scale series.

We also used our Route 66 mapping software (at times in conunction with our GPS unit).

What about public transport?

Budget airlines such as Ryanair and Flybe offer flights from the UK to regional airports in Languedoc-Roussilon.

French Railways (SNCF) have excellent long distance services and can be very cost competitive (even with the airlines).

We saw very few buses but they do exist.

Go straight to: 1 - Introduction | 2 - Puy de Dome/St. Nectaire | 3 - Nissan-lez-Enserune | 4 - Cote de Vermeille